Planning Guide · October 2026

Planning Power Points and Cabling for Motorised Blinds in Singapore

A motorised blind is only as convenient as its power plan. Decide where each motor will get its power before the carpentry, false ceiling and painting are done, and you'll end up with a clean, invisible setup instead of a cable draped down the wall. Here's how to plan it, window by window.

Why Power Planning Matters More Than You Think

Most of our wired motors, such as the A-OK Tuya Smart motor on roller, combi and venetian blinds and the motor built into every Curtain Track, run off a UK-style plug. That means a working socket within reach of the motor, not a hidden electrical connection. Where the socket sits decides how neat the finished window looks, and a socket in the wrong place can only be fixed cleanly before renovation closes the walls and ceiling.

Our installation timeline and common-mistakes guide for new BTO and condo owners both mention this, and it is one of the most frequent regrets we hear: "I wish I had asked for a socket there while the electrician was still on site."

Step 1: Decide Wired or Battery for Each Window

Before marking socket positions, decide which windows really need mains power. Roller, combi and venetian blinds all offer a cordless Li-ion motor for roughly $20-$40 more than the wired motor, with a charge that typically lasts 3-6 months. Curtain tracks and outdoor zip blinds are wired-only, so they always need a socket. Our battery vs hardwired guide covers the trade-offs in detail.

A practical rule: use wired motors wherever a socket is easy and cheap to add, and use battery motors for windows that are hard to reach, such as high windows, or where a socket would be awkward. Never plan battery motors for windows you will raise and lower many times a day, as the charging cycle shortens.

Step 2: Choose the Socket Position

The best position depends on the product. The table below shows our usual starting points. Treat it as a guide and confirm exact positions against your real window during the free on-site survey.

Choose the side of the window where the motor will sit, and tell us before ordering if you have a preference. Moving the motor to the other end is easier to plan at the order stage than after the blind is made.

Step 3: Plan the Cable Route

Even with the socket in the right place, a short lead still has to get from the motor to the plug. The tidiest routes, in order of effort, are: a socket right beside the motor so the cable is only a few centimetres long; a lead tucked inside a pelmet, curtain box or false-ceiling recess; a lead run neatly along the top edge of the window frame or wall with a slim cable cover; and, last, a visible lead that you accept and colour-match to the wall.

If you are renovating, ask your contractor to leave a recessed socket or a conduit stub at the planned position. A socket is far easier to place once than to chase back into a finished wall.

Step 4: Plan for Pelmets, Curtain Boxes and False Ceilings

Curtain boxes and pelmets hide the track and motor beautifully, but they also hide the plug. Whatever you do, keep the plug reachable for servicing and let the area stay ventilated. As a reference, our double Curtain Track needs about 18cm of pelmet clearance versus 10cm for a single track, so size the box with the track in mind. Our curtain track types guide explains the difference.

Room-by-Room Power Plan

Living room and sliding doors: a socket at ceiling height near one end of the track, ideally inside the curtain box. Long runs, up to 5.2m DIY and 6.2m customised, still use one motor, so one socket is usually enough. See our living room track guide.

Bedrooms: one socket near the window end, plus any bedside sockets you plan. If the room has two windows, a socket on each wall avoids a long visible lead. Our bedroom blinds guide has more.

Home office: a socket near the window is often available from the desk power strip, but keep the blind lead clear of monitor cables. See the home office glare guide.

Kitchen, bathroom and service yard: be cautious. These are wet or humid areas, so use battery motors where practical and ask a licensed electrician about any socket placement. Our wet-area guide covers the options.

Balcony: outdoor zip blinds need a protected supply. Plan this with your contractor early, since it often depends on where the balcony electrical point already is.

Common Cabling Mistakes to Avoid

The mistakes we see most are: placing the socket behind a wardrobe or sofa so the plug cannot be reached; putting it on the wrong side of the window from the motor; forgetting that double tracks and combo setups need two motors; running the lead where a child or pet can pull on it; and sealing the plug inside fixed carpentry. Read our child and pet safety guide for lead management tips.

What Happens in a Power Cut?

Wired motors stop responding until power returns, while battery motors keep working from their charge. Our power cut and Wi-Fi outage guide explains what to expect and how to keep a manual fallback in mind for important windows.

What to Prepare Before the On-Site Survey

Bring a floor plan or a few photos of each window, the position of existing sockets, and note where furniture will go. Tell us which windows are battery candidates. We will confirm socket positions, motor sides and pelmet sizes and give you a quote. Our measuring guide helps you prepare, and with prices inclusive of 9% GST, delivery is free from $200 and installation is free from $500.

Frequently Asked Questions